In African and Black communities, braids are a way to express culture, heritage, and identity. More than a hairstyle, braids are a form of art and a sign of self-care. Recent research has revealed an unpleasant truth: the synthetic hair used for braiding could expose wearers to harmful chemicals.
Tradition Meets Modern Concern
In cities such as Johannesburg, Cape Town and Durban, it is common to find intricate braided styles made with synthetic extensions. They are durable, affordable, and convenient. Modacrylics, for example, is a synthetic fibre made from acrylonitrile or vinyl chloride. Both substances are considered probable carcinogens.
Science Behind the Concern
A 2023 peer-reviewed study titled Assessment of Hazardous Chemical Exposure in Synthetic Hair Extensions Among Black Women published in The Lancet Regional Health – Americas analysed widely available synthetic braiding hair. Researchers found high levels of vinyl chloride and acrylonitrile, which raised concerns about long-term effects.
Researchers at the Albert Einstein College of Medicine said that “exposure to harmful chemicals in synthetic braids may be creating a public health problem for Black communities which is not being addressed.”
In addition, the study found that heat sealing braids – a common practice in salons – releases volatile organic compounds (VOCs). These gases can worsen respiratory conditions like asthma and contribute to indoor air pollution.
Chemicals are Not The Only Problem
Not only do toxic chemicals cause concern. Heavy metals such as lead and cadmium have been found in synthetic hair, especially imported products at lower prices. Prolonged exposure to heavy metals, particularly via the scalp, can cause serious health problems, including reproductive and developmental issues.
Leah Thomas, an environmental justice activist, said it clearly: “We wear plastics and chemicals without understanding their consequences for long periods of time.”
Why isn’t Anyone Regulating This?
In the world of beauty products and especially synthetic hair extensions, there is a huge regulatory gap. These products are imported into South Africa and sold without much transparency.
An investigation by AP News revealed that many synthetic hair products sold worldwide, including in local salons or beauty stores, have not undergone adequate chemical safety testing.
Dr. Alexis J. Williams is a toxicologist at the Environmental Working Group. She said that these products are manufactured without much transparency regarding their ingredients.
Real-World Impact
Hairdressers as well as everyday wearers have begun to take notice. Zanele Mokoena is a Soweto stylist who started soaking synthetic fibers in vinegar prior to use when clients complained about itching and rashes.
She says, “It has made a big difference.” Some clients even ask for natural alternatives now. “We’re learning on the job.”
More people are reporting symptoms like headaches, scalp irritation and burning sensations. Although some people are more sensitive, the concern is widespread and warrants action.
Safety Alternatives and Everyday Tips
Here are some tips to help you minimize the risks of braiding.
1. Consider using natural or plant-based extensions:
- These alternatives are becoming more popular and they are free from the harmful chemicals that are found in synthetic hair.
2. Do not use if you have soaked the product.
- The chemical residues can be removed by using a vinegar rinse (one part vinegar to three parts water).
3. Limit Heat Application:
- Reduce the heat used to seal braids.
4. Change Your Styles
- Allow your scalp to breathe in between braided styles.
We Need More Awareness
Experts in public health are calling for more regulation and education. Organizations and salons play an important role in educating clients and helping them choose safer products. Government bodies such as the South African Bureau of Standards are being urged to review and regulate products more stringently.
Nomusa Dlamini is a researcher in public health based in Johannesburg. She says, “We need regulations that prioritize the health of consumers. This is especially true for communities who are disproportionately affected.”
Beauty Without The Risk
Braids are a source for pride and beauty. But they should not come at a hidden cost to your health. We can celebrate our culture without compromising our health with greater awareness, safer options, and stronger regulations.
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